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I realize I haven’t posted any content in a while, but with the pandemic, homeschooling kids, and 2020 in general, it all became a little overwhelming. Now that 2020 is over (thank God), I’m ready to jump back into documenting my crazy remodel starting with installing trim and moulding!

Removing Door and Window Moulding

Before I started installing trim and moulding, I got rid of the old stuff first. If you’ve read my previous posts, you know I LOVE demo, so this first step is by far my favorite!

using a utility knife to cut caulk/paint  on window trim

Step 1:Use a utility knife to cut the old paint/caulk where the trim meets the wall.


using utility knife to cut paint/caulk from window trim at casing

Step 2: Repeat the process on the inside where the trim and casing meet.

This will make it so the trim comes off neatly and reduces the chance of needing to repair anything after demoing.


prybar wedged between window casing and trim

Step 3: Use a hammer to wedge the pry bar between the trim and wall and/or casing.


prying  window trim away from casing using prybar

Step 4: Starting at one end, pry the old trim from the casing. Once you get enough of the trim separated, you can just grab the end and pull, but be careful not to grab any exposed nails!


hammered down nails that were exposed after removing trim

Safety tip! After you are done removing the trim, make sure to hammer the nails down so nobody can step on or grab the exposed nails.


Cutting the window and door trim

Trim and moulding can be tricky because it requires precision in every step. Though I’m a big fan of “good enough”, it’s not going to cut it this time (no pun intended). Through trial and error, I figured out a few tricks to cutting the trim more precisely.

First, measuring is key! If one of your pieces is off by a fraction of an inch, it can affect how the entire window or door looks. I measured multiple times, but also held the trim in place and marked directly onto it. Second, when cutting you have to take into account the width of the saw blade and adjust your cut accordingly. To do this, line up the outer edge of the saw blade with the mark for your cut instead of just cutting down the middle of your line.

Installing window and door trim

vertical window trim pieces secured to casing

First, start with the vertical trim pieces using a level to ensure they are plumb. Make sure that the trim is offset 3/16 in from the edge of the casing. I used a nail gun with finishing nails to secure it into place.

Quick side note… I had to install the right window trim before tiling the wall, so the one pictured was already complete. Also, it’s really hard to hold the trim in place and take pictures. I tried, but it didn’t work out.


window with new trim attached

Once the vertical trip pieces are in place, I added the horizontal pieces. I chose a traditional craftman style of trim which adds one extra step. The little skinny piece at the top of the window is a parting bead and I had to go to a specialty millwork store to get it.

First I secured the parting bead to the vertical pieces using 2 nails, then I secured the top trim piece, and finished by nailing the middle portion of the parting bead to the top piece of trim.

Before securing the vertical pieces, I used ensured they were level.


All was going well until I got to the left window. The parting bead detail made the left window and door super tricky because they are too close together.

mitered parting bead trim

Because the window and door were too close together, I mitered the edges of the parting bead. And I needed to get it right the first time because I had to go to a specialty shop to get it.


mitered parting bead attached to window and door trim.

I measured, and under-cut the pieces and made small adjustments until they fit just right.

To finish the window and door trim, I secured the top trim pieces as described before (you’ll see the final pic below!)


The door trim is exactly the same as the windows minus the bottom vertical piece, so I’m not going to give you the step by step as I think you get the idea.

Installing base trim

The base trim is the piece of moulding where the floor and the wall meet and it can be easy to install until you get to a corner… I picked up a few pointers from a carpenter friend of mine and was excited to try them out.

Butted joint trim cuts

trim cut straight to fit between cabinet and door trim.

Butted joints are the easiest where the ends of the trim are next to a wall, cabinet, or other pieces of trim.

Super simple. Just measure, cut a straight line, and nail!


Installing inside corner base trim

Corners can be tricky. Originally, I thought I would just miter the edges at a 45 degree angle and call it good, but I was so wrong! Because walls are never exactly square, using the 45 degree angle method leaves you with big gaps or trim that just doesn’t fit. The answer? Back cutting. To do this, you cut trim off the back side so the two pieces slide together. Here’s the step by step.

trim cut at 45 degree angle for interior corner

Using this method, one trim piece will butt up against the wall while the second piece with be cut to fit the contours of the trim.

Step 1: Measure and cut your trim. The piece that is butted should be exact and the second piece should be an inch or two longer than the measurement needed. Cut the endo of the second piece at a 45-degree angle.


scrap piece of trim used to outline contours on back of cut trim

Step 2: Flip the trim over and use a pencil to outline the trim on the back of your cut piece. I used a scrap piece of trim for the outline.

mark made on back side of trim for back cutting

trim cut using back cutting method

Step 3: Use a coping saw to cut out the backside of your trim along the line you drew.

It took me a few tries to get it to look decent, but here it is.


inside corner trim joint

Step 4: Slide the pieces together and secure them with nails.

I was super skeptical when I tried this. For some reason, my mind just did not understand how this would work, but the joint turned out perfect.


Finishing the trim

Now that the trim is all up, the last thing to do is to make it look pretty. Before installing, I prepainted the trim, however, it still looks like this…


wood filler applied to nail holes in trim.

I used white wood filler to fill the nail holes. Smudging it on with your finger works best. Here’s a handy tip. Instead of sanding it after it dries as the package suggests, take a wet cloth and wipe it until it’s smooth. That way you avoid making a dusty mess.


To take care of the gaps, I used white caulk on everything! Because there is potential for moisture, I also caulked the bottom of the trim where it meets the floor.


finished window trim

Finally, I touched up the paint and it looks awesome! Here you can see how the caulk and paint make it look neat and finished.


Trimming out the windows, doors, and base took me the better part of a day. During that time I was staring at the old ugly blinds, and I couldn’t stand looking at them anymore. I replaced them with top-down/bottom-up blinds so we could have privacy while still being able to use the window. I think I like the final product. What do you think?

window with top down bottom up blinds

Final Thoughts…

I realize that this is not the most exciting and compelling post, but I thought it was important to detail the process as these kind of details are often forgotten about in the planning process. So in the spirit of keeping it real, I provided the details. More exciting posts to come… I promise!

I started this blog in the hope of inspiring other people to try something new, especially if it is unexpected. If you like what you are seeing, please like, comment, or share! Thanks for reading!