My drains are set, my waterlines are in place, and my walls are up. It’s getting real. Before I can prep my floor for tile, I have to install the Schluter shower pan. I’m a little nervous about this one because if I mess up, I’m out several hundred dollars, so now its really time to prove myself.
Here is what I am starting with…
The Schluter shower pan system
As I mentioned in my planning post, I chose the Schluter system shower pan because I was unable to move my drain and it is relatively easy to customize to your needs.
The Schluter shower pan is sloped and ready to install. It comes in a lot of sizes, but I chose the 38×60 so that I could cut each of the sides to create the correct size with appropriate drain placement.
The shower pan is designed to be installed with shower curbs to keep the water in. There are curbless options, but I didn’t trust myself enough to install those, So I purchased the 38 and 48-inch curbs.
In addition to the shower pan, there is a specific drain assembly to install. I purchased this one which came with an inner and outer corner seals.
I also purchased a few more outside and inside corner seals, and the Schluter Kerdi band, which you will see in a bit.
You can purchase them in a kit, but I needed different sized curbs, so I decided to purchase everything individually. Click here to see the kit.
That’s the plan, so let’s get started!
Measuring and cutting the shower pan
To figure out my pan size, I placed the curbs where I wanted my shower to be. From there, I could figure out my shower pan size and where I would have to cut it.
I needed the shower pan to be 34″ x 48″ while keeping the drain in the right spot. Okay math, I know we don’t usually get along, but I really need you right now…
I feel like this is a high school story problem.
If the original shower pan is 38″ x 60″ with the drain in the center, and my drain needs to be 17″ off one wall and 17.5″ of the other wall with a rectangle that is 34 x 48″, how much do I need to cut off of each side? Show your work.
The answer is my brain hurts.
I figured out one cut at a time. The drain is set in the center, so it is 19″ from the side. I needed 17″, So I removed 2″.
I measured and marked 2″ using a straight edge.
Then, I cut the board using a straight edge and a utility knife. It took a while to get through enough to snap it off and cut the membrane.
Next, I placed the shower pan next to the wall to ensure my math was accurate. Mr. Caputo would be proud.
I trimmed the remaining edges using my amazing math skills and ended up with this. Now it’s time to get dirty…
Setting the drain
There are a couple ways to set the drain depending on how you can access the plumbing. I am using the method for when you do not have access to the plumbing from beneath the shower.
The little white thing in the middle of the shower pan pops off like so.
I measured the length of the pipe needed to attach the drain to the waste pipe.
Then I cut the appropriate length of pipe and attached it to the waste drain using cement.
Now I am ready to mix my thin-set mortar.
Quick side note on thin-set mortar
Not all thin-set is created equal! There are a million different kinds, but they fit into 2 categories; unmodified thin-set mortar, and modified (or fortified) thin-set mortar.
Unmodified mortar consists of Portland cement, sand, water, and retention agents. The Schluter shower pan system calls for an unmodified thin-set to be used because of the waterproofing membrane.
Modified thin-set is mortar with additional bonding agents mixed in, creating a stronger bond. It is important to refer to the installation instructions of each product to determine which type of thin-set to use.
Installing the Sloped drain
First, I removed the foam under the drian.
Next, I applied the thin-set mortar to the foam board making sure to cover it completely.
I slid the muddy foam board under the drain unit.
Finally, I wiped away any additional mortar that remained.
That wasn’t too bad. Let’s kick it up a notch…
Installing the shower pan
To begin, I slopped a bunch of thin-set on the ground where the shower pan would be.
Here is the trowel I used. One side is flat, and the other has little teeth. The teeth can be a variety of depths, but for the shower pan, it required a 1/4 by 3/16 inch notch.
Using the flat side of the trowel, I spread the thin-set evenly around the area, making sure to extend the area a little farther than the shower pan will lay.
Next, I added more thin-set using the notched side
Finally, I placed the shower pan on the thin-set and pressed it firmly into place.
I filled the hole surrounding the drain with thin-set and used a different v-notched trowel te even out the mortar.
Using the flat side of the trowel, I pushed firmly to set the collar into the thin-set and wiped away any additional mortar.
Again, this step was not very hard, I just needed a lot of patience while setting the collar and getting the mortar to be flat and even.
Installing the curbs
Just like with the shower pan, I used the flat side of the trowel to spread the thin-set where the curb would be.
Again, I added thin-set with the notched side of the trowel.
Lastly, I pushed them firmly into place making sure they were level and cleaned up any additional mortar.
Waterproofing the shower pan seams
Now there are a bunch of seams I need to waterproof. The Schluter system uses Kerdi bands and corner seals as I mentioned before.
First off, I had to cut all the pieces I would need so they would be ready to go once I mixed my second batch of thin-set.
This is important because you have a limited time to work once you have your mortar mixed, and every little second counts.
As per the instructions, I made sure that there would be a 2″ overlap whenever pieces had to be layered over each other.
Once the bands were cut, I folded them so they would lay in the crease easier and laid them out in the order in which I would be placing them.
When mixing this batch of thin-set, I made sure to make it more watery. If you don’t it can be really hard to get the membrane to stick.
I started by applying the thin-set with the flat side of the trowel and adding more with the v-notched side.
Then, I placed the band on the mortar, and used the flat side of the trowel to push it into the thin-set, making sure it was flat and fully secure to the mortar.
I repeated the process with the remaining bands and the corners, then wiped up any of the excess mortar.
It took a lot of time and was a little difficult to get the membrane to stick without any bubbles. I ended um moistening the membrane before laying the mortar, and that helped a lot.
Testing the waterproofing
Before you assume everything is great, you have to do the waterproofing test. Yikes! This is nerve wracking! I have never been good at tests.
To begin, you plug the hole. Check. All good so far!
Here is the scary part. I filled the shower pan with water past the level of the Kerdi bands.
Then I marked the water level in multiple spots.
Then you just have to wait, which is another thing I’ve never been good at.
So after 24 hours, I went back to check on it. At this point, if the water level has gone down, then I have failed and have to start all over again.
Thank God it did not! I passed!
I don’t know what I would have done if it didn’t pass, but it did, so let’s not think about it. Now I am finally ready to prep the floor for tiling. I’ll be done with this bathroom in no time! And by “no time” I mean a couple of years, but at least I’m having fun.
I started this blog in the hope of inspiring other people to try something new, especially if it is unexpected. If you like what you are seeing, please like, comment, or share! Thanks for reading!